tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-75803291360391340592024-03-13T06:25:54.047-07:00one D'igital PhotoTALKsextracted from Wan A. Hadi Adventure BookUnknownnoreply@blogger.comBlogger7125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7580329136039134059.post-45716558447842965162013-08-14T16:41:00.006-07:002013-08-14T16:48:42.140-07:00Digiscoping<div style="text-align: justify;">
The word "digiscoping" was coined in 1999 by French birdwatcher Alain Fossé. Digiscoping is a neologism for the activity of using a digital camera to record distant images by coupling it with an optical telescope assembly (OTA).<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjq1VrOb8eJy3fLicTzRgbin9E8xWZ46Bh4ZJQRPPn8-gA4RIDq6subTqbPSJC7K-sxv3A8dnQ9Ma8MXp3pesq9LXWoy3xSUAaG-4JynAShpn0_TgNgoE24QE0_8ZMK0s8T6z5Ya5xZ8Fg/s1600/digiscoping.tif" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjq1VrOb8eJy3fLicTzRgbin9E8xWZ46Bh4ZJQRPPn8-gA4RIDq6subTqbPSJC7K-sxv3A8dnQ9Ma8MXp3pesq9LXWoy3xSUAaG-4JynAShpn0_TgNgoE24QE0_8ZMK0s8T6z5Ya5xZ8Fg/s1600/digiscoping.tif" /></a></div>
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<i>Typical Digiscoping Setup</i></div>
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Among birdwatchers the term "digiscoping" usually refers to using a compact digital camera to snap pictures through the eyepiece of a spotting scope (or telescopes) - a technique called Afocal photography.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/11089819@N04/9329302663/" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title="afocal 2 by unclediy2007, on Flickr"><img alt="afocal 2" height="333" src="http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2857/9329302663_848acf6b6b.jpg" width="500" /></a></div>
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"Digiscoping" has also been associated with using a dSLR and telescope (w/o eyepiece) for prime focus photography as shown below and as described in earlier post.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhI1JjbZQW7WWwIsK9i16eNqDh90enH15kH-xd4lVylBqLEtySbSRaPaqIM_-DVYqUI_vTWtxytj6-RMr_Hvg14mBl7aNxdh0FMjI_jGqiCLFo9uoLpuoZ90VvU8ufsOvcm91SlwdQucds/s1600/primefocus.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhI1JjbZQW7WWwIsK9i16eNqDh90enH15kH-xd4lVylBqLEtySbSRaPaqIM_-DVYqUI_vTWtxytj6-RMr_Hvg14mBl7aNxdh0FMjI_jGqiCLFo9uoLpuoZ90VvU8ufsOvcm91SlwdQucds/s1600/primefocus.jpg" /></a></div>
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Picture below was taken using prime focus technique - by attaching a dSLR using T-adapter directly to an OTA (w/o using eyepiece).<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/99415806@N08/9504987267/" title="Yellow Bird 2 by wan.abhab, on Flickr"><img alt="Yellow Bird 2" height="375" src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3673/9504987267_7fc9c9b987.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7580329136039134059.post-290785931448715532013-07-31T08:33:00.000-07:002013-08-07T05:42:36.569-07:00Using a Digital Camera with a TelescopeImages can be captured on a digital camera image sensor using a telescope in a number of ways...
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<b><span style="color: #b45f06;">Prime Focus Projection </span></b>(for dSLR) </div>
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Prime Focus Projection is the preferred method for digital imaging and will produce the best results by keeping aberrations to an absolute minimum while allowing the maximum amount of light to reach the sensor. The telescope is used in a similar way as a normal pre-set super telephoto lens. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhI1JjbZQW7WWwIsK9i16eNqDh90enH15kH-xd4lVylBqLEtySbSRaPaqIM_-DVYqUI_vTWtxytj6-RMr_Hvg14mBl7aNxdh0FMjI_jGqiCLFo9uoLpuoZ90VvU8ufsOvcm91SlwdQucds/s1600/primefocus.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhI1JjbZQW7WWwIsK9i16eNqDh90enH15kH-xd4lVylBqLEtySbSRaPaqIM_-DVYqUI_vTWtxytj6-RMr_Hvg14mBl7aNxdh0FMjI_jGqiCLFo9uoLpuoZ90VvU8ufsOvcm91SlwdQucds/s1600/primefocus.jpg" /></a></div>
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A T-adapter and a matching T-Ring is required for connecting the dSLR to the telescope. </div>
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Resultant Focal Length = telescope focal length x crop factor (wrt 35mm full frame) </div>
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e.g, a telescope of 560mm focal length used with 4-thirds dSLR (2x crop factor) will be equivalent to 1120mm telephoto lens on 35mm full frame. </div>
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/99415806@N08/9455284977/" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;" title="Bird by wan.abhab, on Flickr"><img alt="Bird" height="375" src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7308/9455284977_ff2317dd2a.jpg" width="500" /></a></div>
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<b><span style="color: #b45f06;">Eyepiece Projection </span></b></div>
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Eyepiece Projection is ideal when high magnifications are required, such as for imaging planets. In this method an eyepiece is used to magnify the projected image. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsvVdDf9C7VpKf3YY2Wxf6DptUbJMyxV3sJFqVo8fVMCLr2xTo0FHn7M0NiKu1Q4ZA6QH_JusJYXYOPrdOBASdWh95MSldEhGUdt6IrlB4moQbwn5Wwcz6pbK9pNmSagLAObFJAbM1Sb8/s1600/eyepiece+projection.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgsvVdDf9C7VpKf3YY2Wxf6DptUbJMyxV3sJFqVo8fVMCLr2xTo0FHn7M0NiKu1Q4ZA6QH_JusJYXYOPrdOBASdWh95MSldEhGUdt6IrlB4moQbwn5Wwcz6pbK9pNmSagLAObFJAbM1Sb8/s1600/eyepiece+projection.jpg" /></a></div>
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The resultant equivalent focal length of a telescope can be calculated using the following formula. </div>
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Resultant Focal Length = (telescope focal length) * A * (crop factor wrt 35mm full frame)
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where amplification, A = ( S – F2 ) / F2 </div>
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S = distance form the last eyepiece lens to the sensor </div>
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F2 = eyepiece focal length </div>
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The smaller the focal length of the eyepiece the larger the projected image will be. The quality of the eyepiece is very important and an eyepiece projection kit will also be required. </div>
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<b><span style="color: #b45f06;">Afocal Projection </span></b>(usually using a compact digicam) </div>
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Afocal Projection involves the telescope, an eyepiece and a camera with its own photographic lens attached to the camera .<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit4yTQ_GIOH5DIGrBi8qRhZ_266NTwL8-x3In_MvT1tm1GGoJgKH0BYajr821Gtx66fUe8jIlfXgumcwJXhEuGREG2AxIjzuhxZdVmH8iDq0cIhAV9C3x3JL89Dol1tedNe2ruEusAW4c/s1600/afocus.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit4yTQ_GIOH5DIGrBi8qRhZ_266NTwL8-x3In_MvT1tm1GGoJgKH0BYajr821Gtx66fUe8jIlfXgumcwJXhEuGREG2AxIjzuhxZdVmH8iDq0cIhAV9C3x3JL89Dol1tedNe2ruEusAW4c/s1600/afocus.jpg" /></a></div>
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Basically the focal length of the camera is further extended by the telescope’s magnification.
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc5hBeKP0ifKmvqX9QcUziPFaHrzeO-0rd1VEmrn6wTJU8q1IaG9ITg9n7GlWoI-8I3tpF0_hmFfh3_d90QwZ15fy-loDSbkW5SjrX6Js9PzcfLVagB1qLfCRQs7PgltdX4kBgxsi1zWM/s1600/9332220518_2124b5ebea.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc5hBeKP0ifKmvqX9QcUziPFaHrzeO-0rd1VEmrn6wTJU8q1IaG9ITg9n7GlWoI-8I3tpF0_hmFfh3_d90QwZ15fy-loDSbkW5SjrX6Js9PzcfLVagB1qLfCRQs7PgltdX4kBgxsi1zWM/s1600/9332220518_2124b5ebea.jpg" /></a></div>
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The resultant focal length can be calculated by the following formula: </div>
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Resultant focal length = (Telescope Magnification) * (camera lens equivalent focal length or efl) </div>
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where Telescope Magnification = (Objective Focal length) / (eyepiece focal length) </div>
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For example a telescope with a 560mm focal length with 10mm focal length eyepiece will have a magnification power of 56x. When used with Lumix LX-3 having equivalent focal length of 60mm
the resultant equivalent focal length (telescope x camera lens) will be 56 x 60mm = 3360mm<br />
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The picture below was taken with Afocal projection method.<br />
<i style="text-align: left;">(swipe or use horizontal and vertical scroll bars to view the entire image...)</i><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhU68h-M-VJnJb8sxY_WjivdlRN344LpyC_CRDeKMGHlBGUqnUoTN44sl0BtOZHhB55JzGXlgCxkxklBa30174ZHrtwVJv1EI0Wo_wmT6AkOdjtchvFqH_lVT9tuH5X1MszhpbITKBN8qs/s3200/3200x2400moon.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhU68h-M-VJnJb8sxY_WjivdlRN344LpyC_CRDeKMGHlBGUqnUoTN44sl0BtOZHhB55JzGXlgCxkxklBa30174ZHrtwVJv1EI0Wo_wmT6AkOdjtchvFqH_lVT9tuH5X1MszhpbITKBN8qs/s3200/3200x2400moon.jpg" /></a>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7580329136039134059.post-59721988649268122442012-07-23T17:35:00.004-07:002013-07-16T19:50:05.145-07:00Getting the Most of the dSLR for macroPhotography<div style="text-align: justify;">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqTE7DgZ63WEPTak28x8RwgnquAx9I09dISOL3GSlFID-psX1C8rBbBluOPrjB6IatRtToQio-l59dc8o3xms2NNukICseTkwmuRu4DcFM-YkIEI8y4f3rxeVrtjsMjAJoQ47Zaed_MGQ/s1600/6243130996_cbcb898faa_s.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqTE7DgZ63WEPTak28x8RwgnquAx9I09dISOL3GSlFID-psX1C8rBbBluOPrjB6IatRtToQio-l59dc8o3xms2NNukICseTkwmuRu4DcFM-YkIEI8y4f3rxeVrtjsMjAJoQ47Zaed_MGQ/s1600/6243130996_cbcb898faa_s.jpg" /></a></div>
When comes to macroPhotography any photographer agrees the advantages of a dSLR cameras. Today, camera technology has reached the point where we can take a picture with just a press of a button. Not withstanding, one must be aware not to fall into trap of letting the camera electronic brain to make the decisions. Before attempting macroPhotography one has to read carefully the camera manual first!.</div>
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In macroPhotography, the camera is placed unusually close to the object to be photographed hence the depth of field becomes extremely shallow and making focusing difficult. In photographing a flower, for example the center of the blossom will be in focus but the petals extending outwards and away from the lens will be blurred.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/8089519@N02/527726318/" title="13-76030306 by ahwan206, on Flickr"><img alt="13-76030306" height="338" src="http://farm1.staticflickr.com/209/527726318_5dfb19351b.jpg" width="500" /></a>
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The depth of field can however be increased by closing the aperture.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/11089819@N04/2806956623/" title="1000-88193334 by unclediy2007, on Flickr"><img alt="1000-88193334" height="333" src="http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3189/2806956623_6de56f7ba1.jpg" width="500" /></a> </div>
A focal length between 50mm to 100mm is considered ideal for macroPhotography, to make sure that it is not necessary to get so close to the object that the camera may block the natural lighting.<br />
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<a href="http://ahwphotogadgets.blogspot.com/2012/07/low-cost-macrophotography-gadgets.html" target="_blank"><b>click HERE</b></a> for typical (and low-cost) macroPhotography Gadgets<br />
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7580329136039134059.post-32562278448043740982012-04-01T20:26:00.000-07:002013-07-26T15:18:56.056-07:00oldTALKS<div style="text-align: justify;">
Photography relies on many branches of knowledge and technology more than other creative medium put together. Knowledge on the hardware, the processes and the subject matter greatly influence the work we do in photography. Most of us are not aware the hidden processes behind clicking the shutter on any digital camera are more complex than any other system we have ever experienced.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/8089519@N02/589345412/" title="Photo Sharing"><img alt="light trail" height="129" src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1389/589345412_33a1ad3c42.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<span style="font-size: 85%;"><span style="font-style: italic;">Olympus C5050z @ 55mm EFL f8 2sec ISO64</span></span><br />
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Photography can be associated to almost every knowledge known to mankind - arts, psychology, social science, optics, mechanical engineering, physics, maths, geometry, electronics, computer engineering, <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fuzzy_logic">fuzzy logics</a>, <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Adaptive_control">adaptive control systems</a>, <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Advanced_process_control">multivariable </a><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nonlinear">nonlinear system</a> just to name a few.<br />
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Some fields in which most ppl never even have ever heard before such as <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Psychophysics">psychophysics</a> can be associated with photography.... just imagine that and the list could be very long.<br />
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However, the canny wizard in photographic industry have simplified the art of taking pics so the only requirement imposed on the photographer is just clicking the shutter. The hidden processes are left unnoticed to the CPU in the camera. We can take pictures like this...... but the result is usually average pictures of average scene. If we are lucky enough we may get good or great shot by chance, but "photography" in real sense does not rely on luck! Knowledge and skill must be developed for great picture taking. Some level of understanding beyond clicking the shutter is required to take picture that are more satisfying.... simply means that our picture fulfills the purpose we had in mind when we took it.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/8089519@N02/589311800/" title="Photo Sharing"><img alt="ballimpact" height="338" src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1410/589311800_edf057ea77.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
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If we take photography as a hobby - its not the final prints that we enjoy most, lemme put this way - it's not the destination, but the journey. Plainly the fun is in the doing, not the end result. We photographers, who are seriously into it as a hobby or profession, find as much rewarding in the things that lead to a photograph as in the final end product. This is manipulation, puzzle solving and complex problem solving...<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/8089519@N02/551516802/" title="08-76151439 by ahwan206, on Flickr"><br /></a></div>
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<span style="color: #cc6600; font-weight: bold;">uncle.D ANSWERS to simple FAQ on Photography</span> - based on reader comments and questions sent to regular forums, e-mails<br />
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<em style="font-weight: bold;">Q. What is the difference between a Tele-converter and an Extension Tube?</em><br />
<strong style="color: #cc6600;"><br />Teleconverter</strong><br />
is an optical device that fits between the camera body and the lens - used to increase the effective focal length of a lens. Also called a tele-extender or converter.<br />
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<em style="color: #cc6600;">Magification Factors</em><br />
1.4x teleconverter is equivalent to a 40% lens extension. For example, a 200mm lens becomes the equivalent of a 280mm lens.<br />
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2x teleconverter is equivalent to a 100% lens extension. For example, 200mm lens becomes the equivalent of a 400mm lens.<br />
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In other words a teleconverter is actually a focal length multiplier. As simple as that, but the effective f-number is reduced accordingly.<br />
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<strong style="color: #cc6600;">Extension Tubes</strong><br />
On the other hand the "Extension Tubes" or "Extenders" are designed to enable a lens to focus closer than its normal set minimum focusing distance. Getting closer has the effect of magnifying the objects (making it appear larger in the viewfinder and in the pictures). They are exceptionally useful for macro photography, enabling to convert almost any lens into a macro lens at a fraction of the cost while maintaining its original optical quality. The extension tubes have no optics - therefore no effect on focal lengths. They are mounted in between the camera body and lens [same way as the teleconverter]. Only effective for lenses having short focal lengths [i.e shorter than 70mm] though.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/11089819@N04/4323398707/" title="OM50mm-minFocus by unclediy2007, on Flickr"><img alt="OM50mm-minFocus" height="281" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4009/4323398707_3df143fb10_o.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
By mounting a 15mm extension tube between the lens flange and the camera, the later can be moved closer to the object for larger magnification...<br />
<a href="http://s152.photobucket.com/albums/s193/unclediy/?action=view&current=OM50mm15EX.jpg" target="_blank"></a><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/11089819@N04/4324134482/" title="OM50mm15EX by unclediy2007, on Flickr"><img alt="OM50mm15EX" height="281" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4048/4324134482_a680072b79_o.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<span style="font-size: 85%;"><span style="font-style: italic;">Zuiko 50mm f1.2 with 15mm extension tube</span></span><br />
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<em style="font-weight: bold;">Q. How to shoot outdoor portraits that look like taking pictures in a studio?</em><br />
Taking portraits is the most difficult sector in photography, at least for me. I'd spent most of my life as an armature taking tens of thousand ppl pictures and human dramas but never really satisfy with the results that forced me to change my interest to <a href="http://www.ahwanphotography.blogspot.com/">nature and wildlife photography</a> after migrating to digital. The only frustration is failure to get the exact skin color/tone besides the right composition and capturing the right moment for great shots.<br />
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Generally speaking studio portraits are clear and sharp - mostly are not great shots at all though. No story!. Not much different from still-life photography. They differ from outdoor portraits in that they tend to be more deliberate, more formalised and more controlled. The subject is being brought to the location - in particular the lighting can be perfected but not natural.<br />
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For newbies the starting confrontation with the ppl to be photographed can sometimes be a little unnerving - waiting to be directed and expecting you to make all the decisions. It is advisable for you to start by photographing ppl you know well...<br />
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With outdoor portraits, you should make some rudimentary decision about what you want the picture to show, i.e what aspect of the subject's personality or appearance you want to depict. The success of the outcome can depend on a mix of elements, including:<br />
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the relationship between the photographer and the subject,<br />
the composition,<br />
the subject pose and mood<br />
the lighting<br />
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Technical matters such as the camera settings, the choice of lenses, etc. also have an obvious effect - these are normally straight forwards. Knowledge and skill must be developed for great picture taking. Some level of understanding beyond clicking the shutter is required to take picture that are more satisfying.... simply means that ur picture fulfills the purpose u had in mind when u took it.<br />
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<em style="font-weight: bold;">Q. What is DOF and BOKEH? </em><br />
Depth of field (DOF) is the area of an image that is in focus. BOKEH [pronoun as b<strong>o</strong>-ke'] is the opposite i.e the appearance of the blured background/foreground of the main object. BOKEH and shallow DOF are important when we need the main subject to stand-out against the background/foreground].<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/11089819@N04/2127073692/" title="05-7A219296 by unclediy2007, on Flickr"><img alt="05-7A219296" height="340" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2326/2127073692_7102d5193d_o.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<span style="font-size: 85%;"><span style="font-style: italic;">ZD 40~150mm f3.5/4.5 @ f4.5 1/90sec ISO200 - zoomed to 150mm</span></span><br />
<br />
<em style="font-weight: bold;">Q. Is BOKEH and DOF the same thing?</em><br />
No, BOKEH and DOF are not the same. They 'co-exist' to complement each other though. DOF is seen in a photograph where there is an obvious focus area, set against BOKEH, i.e the blured background/foreground].Good BOKEH should be soft and pleasing colors in contrast with the foreground colors. Green BOKEH is suitable for red, orange and blue objects...try to avoid using white BOKEH! Black BOKEH for any light objects OK.<br />
<br />
<strong style="color: #cc6600;">Camera settings for bokeh and DOF tips</strong><br />
Preparation for maximum BOKEH [for mid telephoto lenses such as 40~150mm zoom - not applicable for short focal length MACRO lenses]<br />
<br />
-aperture fully open<br />
-use the longest focal length available<br />
-move the camera as close as possible towards the main object<br />
-select suitable background colors<br />
<br />
<em style="font-weight: bold;">Q. Cannot control DOF and create great looking bokeh. Why?</em><br />
There are times when aperture settings do not produce expected results as if there is no change wrt f-stop selected. When this happens one must examine whether the aperture diaphragm is working.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://s152.photobucket.com/albums/s193/unclediy/?action=view&current=7C310039-05.jpg" target="_blank"><img alt="Photobucket" border="0" src="http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s193/unclediy/7C310039-05.jpg" /></a><br />
<span style="font-size: 85%;"><span style="font-style: italic;">Iris mechanism assembly with jammed aperture leaves taken out of my ZD 45~150mm f3.5/4.5 zoom lens</span></span><br />
<br />
There is a possiblity the mechanical or/and electronics component in the aperture assembly is/are mulfunction. No matter what are the causes, the complete assembly consisting of a stepper motor, diaphragms, lens elements, etc must be replaced. Not very expensive though as the mechanism is one of the parts vulnerable to fault especially when the photographer always use shutter speed priority mode.<br />
<br />
<strong><em>Believe-it-or-not </em></strong>the price for the complete assembly is less than the cost of an HMC filter for the same lens!<br />
<a href="http://s152.photobucket.com/albums/s193/unclediy/?action=view&current=7C310032-05.jpg" target="_blank"><img alt="Photobucket" border="0" src="http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s193/unclediy/7C310032-05.jpg" /></a><br />
<span style="font-size: 85%;"><span style="font-style: italic;">Stepper motor and lens element</span></span><br />
<br />
<em style="font-weight: bold;">Q. Should I use Adobe RGB, but don't know what is it...</em><br />
myths: Adobe RGB having a broader range of colors [?]...<br />
probably in theory and mathematical modelling the answer is "YES".<br />
<a href="http://s152.photobucket.com/albums/s193/unclediy/?action=view&current=RGB.jpg" target="_blank"><img alt="Photobucket" border="0" src="http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s193/unclediy/RGB.jpg" /></a><br />
<span style="font-size: 85%;"><span style="font-style: italic;">colorspace as seen by a mathematical modelling</span></span><br />
<br />
I'm also interested about Adobe RGB and other new color spaces . After some wild tests, I found that sRGB is "good enough" for normal photography for me. In fact Adobe RGB is irrelevant for real photography. sRGB gives better (more consistent) results and the same, or even vivid colors. I think using Adobe RGB is one of the leading causes of colors not matching between monitor and print.<br />
<br />
Adobe RGB should never be used unless you really know what you're doing and do all your printing yourself. If you really know what you're doing and working in publishing, go right ahead and use it. If you have to ask, don't even try it... he hee! Use Adobe RGB only if you're one of the few a full-time career professional photographers - by all means shoot Adobe RGB, but if you're an amateur like me, beware... wokay? orait beb.<br />
<br />
<strong style="color: #cc6600;">Details</strong><br />
In theory Adobe RGB can represent a wider range (gamut) of colors, however it requires special software and painstaking workflow. Any mistake you get dull colors. You cannot use Adobe RGB on the internet forum postings or send to conventional photo lab printing. The colors will be muted because Adobe RGB squeezes colors into a smaller range before recording them to your file. Special smart software is then needed to expand the colors back to where they should be when opening the file. If you use Adobe RGB you will have to remember to convert back to sRGB for sending your prints out or sharing them on the Internet. Otherwise they look duller than sRGB.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://s152.photobucket.com/albums/s193/unclediy/?action=view&current=7C310218-05.jpg" target="_blank"><img alt="Photobucket" border="0" src="http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s193/unclediy/7C310218-05.jpg" /></a><br />
<span style="font-size: 85%;"><span style="font-style: italic;">ZD 40~150mm f3.5/4.5 @ f6.3 1/160sec ISO200 - zoomed to 150mm</span></span><br />
<br />
<strong style="color: #cc6600;">Bottom_line</strong><br />
No doubt Adobe RGB may be able to represent a slightly larger range of colors, but no screen or domestic printer can show this broader range, so why cause yourself all the trouble? sRGB is the world standard for digital images, printing and the Internet - almost everybody is shooting in sRGB. Use sRGB and you'll get great, accurate colors everywhere all the time. Like what you see in my blog all are coming in sRGB. Use sRGB and you'll automatically get great, saturated and accurate color everywhere.<br />
<a href="http://s152.photobucket.com/albums/s193/unclediy/?action=view&current=81010560-05.jpg" target="_blank"><img alt="Photobucket" border="0" src="http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s193/unclediy/81010560-05.jpg" /></a><br />
<span style="font-size: 85%;"><span style="font-style: italic;">ZD 14~45mm f3.5/5.6 @ f3.5 1/125sec ISO200 - zoom out to 14mm [EFL=28mm]</span></span><br />
<br />
<em style="font-weight: bold;">Q. How to increase magnification with available lenses?</em><br />
Been taking macro pics up to 2x or 2:1 magnification [wrt 35mm std format] using ZD 35mm f3.5 macro lens for quite some time now.<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/11089819@N04/2124876402/" title="7A198708 by unclediy2007, on Flickr"><img alt="7A198708" height="333" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2074/2124876402_8e9ac30372_o.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<span style="font-size: 85%;"><span style="font-style: italic;">... RM5 [FIVEringgits]</span></span><br />
<br />
Kinda 'not enough' with the magnification as shown above. I need higher magnification actually...<br />
<br />
Already started a project for a DIY extender cum lens reversal for higher magnification. By using a base barrel [about 3" long] of an old super telephoto lens c/w "OM" bayonet mounting flange and a matching 52mm filter + MF-1 adapter, finally the project completed in the evening of Dec 19th.<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/11089819@N04/2122574162/" title="7A198710 by unclediy2007, on Flickr"><img alt="7A198710" height="500" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2010/2122574162_4bd6621afa.jpg" width="375" /></a><br />
The top portion is the male thread of a 52mm filter [liquid welded to the barrel] to be coupled with the front of the macro lens while the lower part is the MF-1 adapter for the 4-thirds camera mount. Picture below shows how the interface was done..<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/11089819@N04/2122575532/" title="P1010003 by unclediy2007, on Flickr"><img alt="P1010003" height="334" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2153/2122575532_cd32cbb519.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
This is the result of an almost 8x or 8:1 magnification wrt 35mm std.<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/11089819@N04/2123666922/" title="7A198703 by unclediy2007, on Flickr"><img alt="7A198703" height="333" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2060/2123666922_65d6f2d855_o.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
I am pleased with the result and already shared with friends at normal forums. Looking forwards for better and colorful macro shots with this 'innovation'<br />
<br />
<em style="font-weight: bold;">Q. How to capture great looking fireworks?</em><br />
It was "Merdeka50" i.e the 50th Malaysian National Day. At midnight there were spectacular fireworks at Putrajaya.<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/11089819@N04/1306690579/" title="Photo Sharing"><img alt="13_8311528" height="338" src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1151/1306690579_ff85b7f17c.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<span style="font-size: 85%;"><span style="font-style: italic;">ZD14~45mm f3.5/5.6 @ f11 10secs ISO100</span></span><br />
<br />
Taking pictures of fireworks is easy and straight forwards by following simple rules that I'd imposed to myself. Now I would like to share with all <em>fotokakis.</em><br />
<strong>Rule #1</strong>: always use a <strong>TRIPOD</strong><br />
<br />
<strong>Rule #2</strong>: use the <strong>LOWEST ISO</strong> setting [ISO100 or less]<br />
<br />
<strong>Rule #3</strong>: use <strong>MANUAL</strong> mode with aperture opening at f8 to f16, generally best at f11, [Just like taking pictures with flash units, shutter speeds will no longer determine the exposure of the fireworks itself other than used to capture the trails length and the exposure of the background/foreground, generally anything between 4 to 16 seconds is good enough, I found that the best shutter speed is 8 seconds]<br />
<br />
<strong>Rule #4</strong>: Use <strong>MANUAL FOCUS</strong> lens or set auto focus to MAN [if u r using autofocus lenses]<br />
<br />
I suggest to use a moderate telephoto lens to keep shooting distance further away from the 'action' and crowds.<br />
<br />
To start with, I would suggest the following settings:<br />
<br />
MANUAL mode, Camera on TRIPOD<br />
Aperture: f11<br />
Shutter: 8seconds<br />
ISO: 100<br />
<br />
And the results as shown below [all of them were taken by my son, K.A Wan] were not disappoint me at all...<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/11089819@N04/1306703987/" title="Photo Sharing"><img alt="13_8311569" height="500" src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1326/1306703987_e61980fbb8.jpg" width="379" /></a><br />
<span style="font-size: 85%;"><span style="font-style: italic;">Tokina RMC 135mm f2.8 @ f11 8secs ISO100</span></span><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/11089819@N04/1307322827/" title="Photo Sharing"><img alt="13_8311576" height="500" src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1013/1307322827_4cd4656c3f.jpg" width="379" /></a><br />
<span style="font-size: 85%;"><span style="font-style: italic;">Tokina RMC 135mm f2.8 </span></span><span style="font-size: 85%;"><span style="font-style: italic;"> @ f11 8secs ISO100</span></span><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/11089819@N04/1308194264/" title="Photo Sharing"><img alt="13_8311575" height="500" src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1148/1308194264_3272f9c952.jpg" width="379" /></a><br />
<span style="font-size: 85%;"><span style="font-style: italic;">Tokina RMC 135mm f2.8 </span></span><span style="font-size: 85%;"><span style="font-style: italic;"> @ f11 8secs ISO100</span></span><br />
<br />
To get the better results u may 'play around' up to +- 2stops with aperture [or shutter]. Good Luck<br />
<br />
<em style="font-weight: bold;">Q. How to set EV for moonPHOTOGRAPHY?</em><br />
Last night the Moon was 17 days old - i.e the remaining 85% full. The sky was relatively clear with light haze as there was no rain in Klang Valley for the last one week. The Moon was a little bit reddish - not as bright as on previous night.<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/8089519@N02/709963519/" title="Photo Sharing"><img alt="13-77043119b" height="338" src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1366/709963519_e9d592944c.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
<strong>Tuesday July 03rd, 2007</strong><br />
<em>I had to wait in sleep for a few hours past midnite till the Moon was high enough <a href="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1156/709614173_0a86007055.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1156/709614173_0a86007055.jpg" style="float: right; margin: 0px 0px 10px 10px; width: 200px;" /></a> to clear these trees before clicking the shutter</em> >><br />
<br />
It was 100% full-moon two nights ago. Unfortunately the sky was "mostly cloudy" at then. Only at the 16th lunar-nite I could see clear sky with the 90% remaining full-moon.<br />
<br />
The moon rose up above the horizon at almost 10pm. I had to sleep early in order to wake up at around 4:30am when the moon was at "noon" i.e almost vertically over head. That was the only position at which I could shoot the moon from the roofless balcony as four corners of my house is completely surrounded by 20yrs-old trees of up to 50ft [16m] tall.<br />
<br />
The night sky was not perfectly clear though. I had to boost up contrast and sharpness on the camera settings for this shot...<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/8089519@N02/701904133/" title="Photo Sharing"><img alt="10-76033018" height="339" src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1020/701904133_1753e4a797.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
Original date/time: 2007:07:03 04:51:52<br />
Exposure time: 1/60<br />
F-stop: 11<br />
ISO speed: 100<br />
Lens: Danubia [1979]<br />
Focal length: 800mm [EFL]<br />
Flash: -<br />
Exposure mode: Manual<br />
White balance: Auto<br />
Orientation: Top-left<br />
Light source: Unknown<br />
Exposure bias: 0.0000<br />
Metering mode: Center Weighted<br />
Exposure program: Manual<br />
Camera: Olympus E-500<br />
<br />
<br />
<strong style="color: #cc6600;">Tips on Shooting the Moon</strong><br />
In contrary to common belief, setting the exposure values [shutter speed and aperture or f-stop] on camera for shooting <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Moon">the Moon </a>is quite easy and straight forwards. First, we must realise that the light which illuminates the Moon surface is exactly from the same source that we receive on the Earth surface at noon, i.e from the Sun. Thus rule-of-thumb <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sunny_16_rule">Sunny-16</a> can be applied directly when taking pictures of the Moon either in daylight or at night.<br />
<br />
The best initial settings [as a guide only]<br />
<em>aperture: f16<br />shutter speed: 1/ISO sec</em>. - i.e if we select ISO 100 then the shutter speed should be 1/100sec [or anything from 1/90sec to 1/125sec].<br />
<br />
After capturing and viewing the picture do minor adjustments on f-stop or/and shutter speed to get the best setting. It is best to shoot the Moon away from the city haze and lights. Preferably after 3:00am. Different phases of the Moon will give different results, especially for the Moon texture or surface details. Full Moon will not show distinct craters as there is no hard shadows. Personally I prefer taking 75% full moon, i.e on the 11th and on the 18th day [note: from 0% to 100% and from 100% to 0% full moon take 14 to 15 days, NOT 30 days]<br />
<br />
This pic was taken on the 18th day [last 75% full] at Sabak Bernam, a location far away from the city.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7VtSoCRDJPHnqG5gcjiGwbfQ9HGiMRolrHi6Aqdh93pCPsDjWdSIZtAr_uFWuuwHbOZQaMVvXV-rnKkC2peqFms2p6qaaG9uugdVkGMhFobY4gixNKuaC764dhVEmDMFZMkB0ULoRHJk/s1600/moon.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7VtSoCRDJPHnqG5gcjiGwbfQ9HGiMRolrHi6Aqdh93pCPsDjWdSIZtAr_uFWuuwHbOZQaMVvXV-rnKkC2peqFms2p6qaaG9uugdVkGMhFobY4gixNKuaC764dhVEmDMFZMkB0ULoRHJk/s1600/moon.jpg" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
Original date/time: 2006:06:16 05:52:25<br />
Exposure time: 1/30<br />
F-stop: 22<br />
ISO speed: 100<br />
Lens: Danubia [1979]<br />
Focal length: 800mm [EFL]<br />
Flash: -<br />
Exposure mode: Manual<br />
White balance: Auto<br />
Orientation: Top-left<br />
Light source: Unknown<br />
Exposure bias: 0.0000<br />
Metering mode: Center Weighted<br />
Exposure program: Manual<br />
Camera: Olympus E-500<br />
<br />
<em style="font-weight: bold;">Q. How to determine macro magnification?</em><br />
<strong style="color: #cc6600;">MACROphotography with Compact Digital Cameras</strong><br />
Normally MACROphotography is associated with macro lenses and a bundle of accessories or attachments on dSLR. Many articles have been written on this subject. For those who own dSLR with macro lenses are very fortunate and feel happy about this.<br />
<br />
How about people with compact digital cameras? Can they do MACROphotography too? The answer is absolutely *YES! with only one limitation though, i.e most compact digicam can not produce shots of greater than 1:1 magnification. 1:1 magnification [wrt to 35mm film standard] is capturing images of object measuring 36mm x 24mm[or 27mm] full frame, or making copy [i.e duplicate] of 35mm slide on CCD, or capturing 'Agung' full face on RM50 note as shown below.<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/8089519@N02/594545499/" title="Photo Sharing"><img alt="pitis50vga" height="339" src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1101/594545499_d620cd3051.jpg" width="500" /></a></div>
<div align="justify">
</div>
<div align="justify">
Macro shot with 1:1 magnification,</div>
<div align="justify">
compare to 2:1 [2x] magnification shown below [taken with a macro-lens]<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/8089519@N02/682439959/" title="Photo Sharing"><img alt="20-76012999-3x" height="338" src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1310/682439959_352c67f612.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
To be honest, how often do we do magnification of greater than 1:1? More often than not 90% of close-up photos taken are less than 1:4 magnification for shots likes flowers, pets, fruits, birthday cakes, portraits, etc.. for instance taking close-up pictures of one's face [or pet's] is only less than 1:10 magnification. Hence, a digital compact camera is good enough for most close-up shots.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/8089519@N02/543476439/" title="Photo Sharing"><img alt="16-76070640a" height="338" src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1168/543476439_f7c0d0e6f1.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
[*Note: I use the word MACRO here is actually technically incorrect , as the actual defination for <em>macro</em> is taking pictures with the magnification of greater than 1:1. The right term for magnification less than 1:1 should be CLOSEUPphotography]<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/8089519@N02/595418639/" title="Photo Sharing"><img alt="08P3090087" height="339" src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1255/595418639_36e796bb03.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
<strong>Fact:</strong> Results achievable with a compact digital camera in macro mode probably comparable with macro lens on dSLR. I've shot remarkably good pictures [to my own sub-standard <em>lah..]</em> with compact cameras. All my closeup shots [click <a href="http://ahwanphotography.blogspot.com/2007/05/macrophotography-compact-digicam.html">here</a> to view] were taken with a compact camera.<br />
<br />
___________________________________________<br />
<br />
<strong style="color: #cc6600;">CLOSEUPphotography tips</strong><br />
<br />
<strong>Tip #1:</strong> Turn on the ignition key.....<br />
On compact digicams there is Macro Mode [some digicams have Super Macro Mode for up to 1:1 magnification] - "Believe it or Not" many digital camera owners do not aware the shooting modes that their camera has. Macro mode is symbolized with a little flower.<br />
<br />
<strong>Tip #2:</strong> Always use a Tripod. Even top pros use tripods if not <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Monopod">monopods</a><br />
In macro photography a tripod is a necessity if u don't have a hot shoe and an external electronic flash unit - technically speaking built in flash is not suitable for "macro" as there is parallax. Keeping your camera rock-steady not only preventing of camera shake but you can play around with different settings and exposure value [EV] without losing your composition.<br />
<br />
<strong>Tip #3:</strong> Use everything MANUAL whenever possible<br />
If your camera has Manual modes you can play with aperture settings - it is 'wajib' to do so. The bottom line is that aperture impacts is the depth of field of your shots. Taking closeup or macro shots with shallow depth of field will make the main object stand out of crowd. Contrasty-Coloful out of focus background gives an additional impact on the captured images. Never choose a high f-number [small aperture] - select the f-number adjacent to the largest aperture available.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/8089519@N02/595418625/" title="Photo Sharing"><img alt="bungaungu" height="339" src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1213/595418625_17991d655c.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
It is also important to have manual focusing, or fix focusing - In closeup or macro photography it is easier to move the camera forward or backwards than try to focus the image on CCD, especially when the camera focussing is done by wire, i.e non-mechanicals.<br />
<br />
For those with all-AUTO compact digicams [difficult to focus on flat objects of insufficient contrast] may overcome the <em>macro</em> focusing problem by first pointing and focusing the image on onother object of high contrast with clear diagonal lines at approx. the same object-to-camera distance with the actual object to be captured. After sharp focus is achieved, lock it [i.e keep half-depressing the shutter], then slowly point to the actual object of interest, move the camera forwards or backwards until sharp focus is achieved. Click the shutter. View the captured image. Repeat. Do neccessary adjustments [such as EV compansation, distance, composition, etc..] for best results.<br />
<br />
<strong>Tip #4</strong> Don't break the rule!<br />
Rule of Thirds must be obeyed here. The image must have the main focus point of interest to draw the attention of curious onlookers. Always select a simple but contrasting background for the main object. In closeup or macro shots, background is also very important.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/8089519@N02/510650001/" title="Photo Sharing"><img alt="kerengge-800" height="339" src="http://farm1.static.flickr.com/211/510650001_ae012b31be.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://farm1.static.flickr.com/207/510688024_b6d7d1b40b_o.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" src="http://farm1.static.flickr.com/207/510688024_b6d7d1b40b_o.jpg" style="float: left; margin: 0px 10px 10px 0px; width: 200px;" /></a><strong>Tip #5 Lights</strong><br />
If your camera has hot-shoe for external flash try diffuse using paper or whatever over the flash or get a reflector gather the most of light available. DIY with different types of lighting technique is recomended. If u and ur camera does not have 'macro flash capability' natural light is important hence selecting a suitable time of day for sufficient light is a must.<br />
<br />
<strong>Tip #6</strong> Get 'em!<br />
After you have your shot take a look on your LCD, make sure that the picture is sharp. Repeat shooting at different apertures, compositions and focusing to get the best results.<br />
<br />
<strong>Tip #7</strong> Accessories and Attachments<br />
Compact Digital Cameras also have accessories and attachments to enhance picture takings . Get them if u have enough allocation. </div>
<div align="justify">
</div>
<div align="justify">
[to be continued...]<br />
____________________________________________<br />
<br />
<strong style="color: #cc6600;">CLOSEup and MACROphotography FAQ</strong><br />
<br />
<strong style="font-style: italic;">Q. Close-up</strong><span style="font-style: italic;"> </span>- <em>What's UP</em>?<br />
Close-up photography is simply positioning the camera very close [normally at the minimum-focus distance] to the object being photographed by using prime or zoom lenses - a closeup <em>filter</em> is normally attached in front to minimise focusing distance hence increase magnification. In close-up photography the magnification is in the range of 1:1 to 1:10<br />
<br />
<strong style="font-style: italic;">Q. What is Magnification?</strong><br />
The magnification is the ratio of the image size on CCD [or film - not the displayed or printed image size] against the real-life dimension being captured.<br />
<br />
<strong style="font-style: italic;">Q. How to determine Magnification?</strong><br />
In real life the vertical measurement of the RM10 note captured by the CCD was 54mm. Hence the magnification is 24:54 or about 1:2. This picture is a close-up photo, not macro.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/8089519@N02/587080103/" title="Photo Sharing"><img alt="P7270180" height="339" src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1277/587080103_bdd9d30885.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
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<strong style="font-style: italic;">Q. What is the dividing line between Close-up and MacroPhotography?</strong><br />
Photomacrography or commonly called MACROphotography makes the image captured on CCD [or film] larger than real life-size. The dividing line between close-up and macro is a magnification of 1:1, at which the the image is exactly the same size as the subject or life-size.<br />
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The picture shown below measures only 12mm high in real life was captured on CCD. Therefore the magnification is 24:12, i.e 2:1 and hence qualifies for macro category.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/8089519@N02/511878907/" title="Photo Sharing"><img alt="08P5240900" height="339" src="http://farm1.static.flickr.com/202/511878907_44d7c3d75a.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
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<strong style="font-style: italic;">Q. What is the difference between Macro and Micro Photography?</strong><br />
By now the term MACROphotography should be fully understood. But do not get mixed up with MICROphotography or <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Photomicroscopy">PhotoMICROscopy</a>. The letter "A" and "I" in the spellings have different meanings... [in some countries they sound almost the same though]. Photomicrography is taking pictures through microscopes for very high magnification, and is more technical than art of taking picture. Whereas Macro Photography is an <em>art</em> with a little bit of <em>technical</em> touch ...<br />
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<strong style="color: #cc6600;">Sample of MACROphotographs</strong><br />
shot with <a href="http://www.olympus-esystem.com/dea/products/lens/35_35M/index.html">Zuiko Digital 35mm f3.5 Macro lens</a><br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/8089519@N02/524560342/" title="Photo Sharing"><img alt="11P6012299" height="500" src="http://farm1.static.flickr.com/254/524560342_b1cc9a4f4f.jpg" width="339" /></a><br />
ZD Macro 35mm f3.5 @ 1/30sec f9.5 ISO100. This picture shows stamens with pollen grains of <em>buah 6-6</em> or <em>buah katakpuru</em> flower. The size of this cluster is approximately 4 to 5mm. </div>
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This spider L-R 'footprints' measures only 8mm across, almost unnoticed to naked eyes. The cephalotorax alone is much smaller than the head of a match-stick. I have to take position about 30mm between the surface of lens filter to the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arachnida">arachnida</a>.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/8089519@N02/521167805/" title="Photo Sharing"><img alt="13P5302206" height="339" src="http://farm1.static.flickr.com/194/521167805_5dc33a6ae7.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<span style="font-size: 85%;"><span style="font-style: italic;">ZD Macro 35mm f3.5 @ 1/180sec f16.0 ISO100 [3:1] </span></span></div>
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Vertical life-size dimension is only 8mm , hence magnification is 24:8, i.e 3:1<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/8089519@N02/513230939/" title="Photo Sharing"><img alt="08P5251258" height="339" src="http://farm1.static.flickr.com/218/513230939_8119971c23.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<span style="font-size: 85%;"><span style="font-style: italic;">ZD Macro 35mm f3.5 @ 1/60sec f11 ISO100 [3:1]</span></span></div>
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<strong style="font-style: italic;">Q. Can a "Point and Shoot" Digital Camera take macro shots?</strong><br />
Point and shoot digital cameras can have remarkable macro capabilities, but for best results you want a dSLR camera. These allow you to attach special-purpose macro lenses and show you in a bright optical viewfinder what you will get on the CCD.<br />
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For instance, an <a href="http://www.olympus-esystem.com/dea/products/lens/35_35M/index.html">entry-level macro</a> lens with maximum aperture of f3.5 costs more than the prices of most 6MP compact digital cameras with 'macro' capability, and a <em>slightly</em> better macro lens such as <a href="http://www.photozone.de/8Reviews/lenses/olympus_50_2/index.htm">ZD 50mm f2.o ED </a>may cost double. Investment on special flash unit will swallow a large chunk of budget too.<br />
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In general, buying a dSLR with bundled lenses is just one-half of the procument!. That's what a dSLR is all about. Be prepare to spend on lenses and accessories... probably RM10k is <em>good enough </em>for a beginner, otherwise just stick to a compact digicam or a prosumer digicam.<br />
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Click <a href="http://ahwanphotography.blogspot.com/2007/05/macrophotography-compact-digicam.html">here</a> to see some decent near-macro shot with a compact prosumer digital camera.<br />
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<br />
<strong style="font-style: italic;">Q. What photography is all about?</strong><br />
The word "Photography" actually covers so many topics of great interest:-<br />
hardware, software<br />
photographers, techniques<br />
subjects, locations, events<br />
lights, time, tides, moods, weather<br />
etc.<br />
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<strong style="color: #cc6600;">Freezing the Transients</strong><br />
In short, Photography is the process of transforming from trasient to timeless event.<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/8089519@N02/589311800/" title="Photo Sharing"><img alt="ballimpact" height="338" src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1410/589311800_edf057ea77.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<span style="font-size: 85%;"><span style="font-style: italic;">Olympus E-500 with ZD14-45mm f3/5/5.6 @ f6.3 1/125 ISO100</span></span><br />
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Great pictures are not necessarily best in term of quality. Sometimes blurred, shaky, B&W images have more values than studio like sharp, beautiful and coloful photos finish. The following photo, shot by my son, K. A. Wan was published in <em>Digital Camera Magazine Issue 17</em> supports my views indeed...<br />
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<img alt="" border="0" height="254" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5066125601075091458" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi2ubP9ODL7rc8HH6XnVBFNWPaFBwGxL3w0j3pOeHlZi8q5V_gblg7uE-o11Juv7YUjliEILAjyzdvI_QK6d05yNa_qIac4FW9xO1pnT-yp35Zh59NyCgvCJUGsYWm1B4FNquIWhUzBSZU/s400/hotshot17.jpg" style="display: block; height: 257px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 386px;" width="400" /><span style="font-size: 85%;"><span style="font-style: italic;">Olympus E500 with ZD 40-150mm f3.5/4.5 @ f16 1/8 sec ISO100</span></span><br />
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<strong style="color: #cc6600;">BACK to the BASICS</strong><br />
The very basic about picture taking<br />
-focus the image<br />
-set exposure of light i.e EV<br />
-capture images by clicking the shutter<br />
<br />
However, the canny wizard in photographic industry have simplified the art of taking pics so the only requirement imposed on the photographer is just clicking the shutter. The hidden processes are left unnoticed to the CPU in the camera. U can take pictures like this...... but the result is usually average pictures of average scene. If u r lucky enough u may get good or great shot by chance, but "photography" in real sense does not rely on luck! Knowledge and skill must be developed for great picture taking. Some level of understanding beyond clicking the shutter is required to take picture that are more satisfying.... simply means that ur picture fulfills the purpose u had in mind when u took it.<br />
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<strong style="font-style: italic;">Q. What are the <em>processes</em>?</strong><br />
The lens admits light from the object of interest. As soon as the shutter is opened, image-forming light is allowed to fall on the surface of CCD or CMOS (equivalent to film surface in 'ancient camera') .<br />
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Next is the <em>exposure -</em> i.e the the 'dose' of light received by the CCD which depends on the light intensity (aperture) and the duration (shutter speed). The light intensity is determined by 'iris' opening (or aperture) that we call <em>f</em>-number or <em>f</em>-stop which indicates of "how much" light the lens transmits to the CCD. Shutter speed is the duration during which light is allowed in the prosess of capturing particular image.<br />
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The digital camera now dominates the mass market, its manufacturing development is highly sophisticated, and constant improvement in design make it easier to handle yet more accurate and versatile. Photography is now so simple and so immediately gratifying that for millions of ppl it has become the most popular means of self-expression. However knowledge and experience will change the great pictures u shot from mere 'luck' to masterpiece.<br />
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Actually my interest is in NATUREphotography [incl. wild animals, Insects, flowers, earth, water, wind and fire]...as well as MACROphotography.<br />
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by courtesy of K. A. Wan<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/8089519@N02/589079277/" title="Photo Sharing"><img alt="SILAT" height="500" src="http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1102/589079277_a6ac18671e.jpg" width="339" /></a><br />
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7580329136039134059.post-44721310590446931852011-11-01T16:49:00.000-07:002011-11-01T03:19:31.170-07:00Focal Length and Perspective<span style="font-weight: bold;">Q. Will lenses of different focal lengths produce different perspective?</span><br /><div style="text-align: justify;">The answer is <span style="font-weight: bold;">NO</span> and <span style="font-style: italic;">yes</span>. "NO" if u keep object to camera distance unchanged. Of course the angle of view widens as u change focal lengths or when u zoom-in. The perspective remains the same though.It's the object to camera distance that changes perspective. Not the focal length.<br /><br />The perspective will change only if u r trying to keep the main object image size [in the foreground] the same by changing object to camera distance as u change lens focal length - i.e by moving closer to the object for shorter focal length and step backwards from the object for longer focal length - in this case the perspective changes.<br /><br /></div><br /><br /><div><b>Hands-on lensTalks</b></div><div><br /></div><div>Prime Legacy Manual Lenses - all metal all glass</div><div><b><a href="http://ahwadventure.blogspot.com/search/label/17mm%20f3.5">17mm f3.5</a> </b></div><div><b><a href="http://ahwadventure.blogspot.com/search/label/28mm%20f2.8">28mm f2.8</a> </b></div><div><b style="text-align: center; "><a href="http://ahwadventure.blogspot.com/search/label/50mm%20f1.2">50mm f1.2</a></b></div><div><div><b style="text-align: center; "><a href="http://ahwadventure.blogspot.com/search/label/135mm%20f2.8">135mm f2.8</a></b></div><div><b style="text-align: center; "><a href="http://ahwadventure.blogspot.com/search/label/200mm%20f3.5">200mm f3.5</a></b></div><div><b style="text-align: center; "><a href="http://ahwadventure.blogspot.com/search/label/400mm%20f6.3">400mm f6.3</a></b></div></div><div><br /></div><div>ZD autoFocus Lenses</div><div><b><a href="http://ahwadventure.blogspot.com/search/label/35mm%20f3.5%20macro">35mm f3.5 macro</a> </b></div><div><b><a href="http://ahwadventure.blogspot.com/search/label/14-54mm%20f2.8%2F3.5">14-54mm f2.8/3.5</a></b></div><div><b style="text-align: center; "><a href="http://ahwadventure.blogspot.com/search/label/40-150mm%20f3.5%2F4.5">40-150mm f3.5/4.5</a></b></div><div><b style="text-align: center; "><a href="http://ahwadventure.blogspot.com/search/label/70-300mm%20f4.0%2F5.6">70-300mm f4.0/5.6</a></b></div><div style="text-align: center;"><b><br /></b></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7580329136039134059.post-28933392803059712552011-01-01T13:01:00.000-08:002013-07-16T19:45:48.615-07:00Welcome again to abhabPHOTOtalk<div style="text-align: justify;">
My apology for closing down this blog for more than one year. Phototalks now reopens. "<span style="font-style: italic;">Let's talk...</span>"<br />
<br />
I was actually preoccupied with some other activities that I forgot NATUREphotography and PHOTOtalks - besides that my old faithful dSLR dropped off while cycling at Morib breaking one of my favourite lenses. The camera itself wasn't function properly too after the incident.<br />
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I'd sold ZD 7o-3oomm f4 & ZD 14-52mm f2.8 lenses while they were still 'hot' amongst 4-thirds system enthusiasts and then I bought a Panasonic LX3 compact digital camera [with Leica lens of 24mm efl/f2.o].<br />
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After one year using "point and shoot" digital camera I'd thought of buying another dSLR. Life as a NATUREphotographer must go on. At one weekend night, I decided to open up the old dSLR to find out if there were some repairable mechanical failures and I didn't mind to be like '<span style="font-style: italic;">tikus baiki labu</span>' because I'd decided to go ahead with the new dSLR purchase. Nothing to loose. To my surprise there was only a loose connector on flexi-PCB inside the camera body - probably due to very high <span style="font-style: italic;">g</span>-force when it fell off.<br />
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<span style="font-style: italic;">Legaaa!!!</span> the old faithful Olympus E-5oo came to life and ready for action for the first time after hibernating for more than one year. Here are some shots...<br />
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/11089819@N04/4321436419/" title="08-91310077 by unclediy2007, on Flickr"><img alt="08-91310077" height="281" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2750/4321436419_77fc39f7f1.jpg" width="500" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: 85%; font-style: italic; text-align: justify;">Zuiko Digital 35mm f3.5 macro @ f8 1/60sec ISO100 using built-in flash</span></div>
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/11089819@N04/4321177850/" title="Feb01A1010116 by unclediy2007, on Flickr"><img alt="Feb01A1010116" height="281" src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2741/4321177850_27e6ef7a2f_o.jpg" width="500" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: 85%; font-style: italic; text-align: justify;">Tokina RMC 200mm f3.5 @ f11 1/250sec ISO400</span></div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7580329136039134059.post-52790208861661806732010-02-04T14:42:00.000-08:002013-07-16T19:51:25.153-07:00How resolutions effect magnification<em><strong>Q. What is the significance of higher resolution CCDs?</strong></em><br />
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Apart from greater detail, larger resolution CCDs produce bigger <span style="font-style: italic;">image</span>, but don't get confused by the <a href="http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Canon-Lenses/Canon-Lens-Magnification-Value.aspx">magnification</a> on frame and viewfinder which depends on lens - not CCD.<br />
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For illustration I shot the moon at 8MP and 2MP settings respectively using the same camera. The native resolutions were maintained [i.e no size reduction] but cropped 100% to 500 x 282pixel.<br />
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<span style="font-style: italic; font-weight: bold;">Q. What is 100% crop?</span><br />
100% crop means that your are seeing the image 1:1, i.e you're seeing it at the pixel level, each pixel on your screen is a pixel of the image captured on the CCD. I've blown it up to 100% then cropped it - since the WHOLE image of 8MP or even 2MP would be HUGE to display on this screen without cropping or trimming.<br />
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Here are the results for comparison:<br />
<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/11089819@N04/4331282042/" title="05A1040197 by unclediy2007, on Flickr"><img alt="05A1040197" height="282" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4028/4331282042_307d925ac8_o.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<span style="font-size: 85%;"><span style="font-style: italic;">8MP [3264 x 2448pixel] cropped 100%</span></span></div>
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<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/11089819@N04/4331231594/" title="05A1040190 by unclediy2007, on Flickr"><img alt="05A1040190" height="282" src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4024/4331231594_7166d092d6_o.jpg" width="500" /></a><br />
<span style="font-size: 85%;"><span style="font-style: italic;">2MP [1600x1200pixel] cropped 100%</span></span><br />
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EXIF<br />
Original date/time: 2010:02:04 06:07:20<br />
Exposure time: 1/180<br />
F-stop: 11<br />
ISO speed: 200<br />
Focal length: Tokina RMC 200mm f3.5 s/n 7701252<br />
Flash: -<br />
Exposure mode: Manual<br />
White balance: Auto<br />
Orientation: Top-left<br />
Light source: Unknown<br />
Exposure bias: 0.0000<br />
Metering mode: Pattern<br />
Exposure program: Manual<br />
Digitized date/time: 2010:02:04 06:07:20<br />
Modified date/time: 2010:02:04 06:07:20<br />
Image description: OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA<br />
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<div style="text-align: start;">
<b><span style="color: #b45f06;">Click on any of the following highlighted photo categories to proceed.</span></b></div>
<div style="text-align: start;">
<i><span style="color: #b45f06;">Categories</span></i></div>
<div style="text-align: start;">
<a href="http://ahwanphotography.blogspot.com/2007/08/arachnography-spiders.html"><b>ARACHNOgraphy</b></a> - spiders</div>
<div style="text-align: start;">
<a href="http://ahwanphotography.blogspot.com/2007/08/entomography-insects.html"><b>ENTOMOgraphy</b></a> - insects</div>
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<a href="http://ahwanphotography.blogspot.com/2007/08/floragraphy-flowers.html"><b>FLORAgraphy</b></a> - flowers</div>
<div style="text-align: start;">
<a href="http://ahwanphotography.blogspot.com/2007/08/landscape.html"><b>LANDSCAPE</b></a></div>
<div style="text-align: start;">
<a href="http://ahwanphotography.blogspot.com/2008/02/butterfgraphy.html"><b>LEPIDOgraphy</b></a> - butterflies and moths</div>
<div style="text-align: start;">
<a href="http://ahwanphotography.blogspot.com/2007/08/mammalgraphy-animals.html"><b>MAMMALgraphy</b></a> - four-legged animals</div>
<div style="text-align: start;">
<a href="http://ahwanphotography.blogspot.com/2007/08/ornithography-birds.html"><b>ORNITHOgraphy</b></a> - birds<br />
<a href="http://ahwanphotography.blogspot.com/2007/12/reptography.html"><b>REPTOgraphy</b></a> - reptilia</div>
<div style="text-align: start;">
<a href="http://ahwanphotography.blogspot.com/2007/05/wondercolorphotography.html"><b>WONDERcolors</b></a> - natural spectrum of colours</div>
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<div style="text-align: start;">
<span style="color: #b45f06;"><i>Uncategorised photo</i>s</span></div>
<div style="text-align: start;">
<a href="http://ahwanphotography.blogspot.com/2007/06/anyphoto.html"><b>ANYphoto</b></a> - general uncategorised photos</div>
<div style="text-align: start;">
<a href="http://ahwanphotography.blogspot.com/2007/05/macrophotography-compact-digicam.html"><b>CLOSEUPhotography</b></a> - general close-up photos [non-macro]</div>
<div style="text-align: start;">
<a href="http://ahwanphotography.blogspot.com/2007/05/photo-talks.html"><b>TALKphotography</b></a> - readers can find FAQ, post questions and comments here</div>
<div style="text-align: justify;">
<a href="http://ahwanphotography.blogspot.com/2007/05/wondercolorphotography.html"><b>WONDERcolors</b></a> - striking color photos</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com